Brushbeater Discusses AR’s, The Alternatives, And How To Select One

Compact Rifle post2

DSA FAL Para.

Brushbeater gives some good advice about selecting a caliber and weapon type. It is no secret that I am a big fan of the 7.62×51 (.308) and the FAL and M1A (M14) rifles in particular. As much as I would rely on those two rifle types and that caliber, anyone who knows me will also tell you I think everyone needs a quality AR in 5.56 caliber in their gun safe, because it just makes logistical sense. From a Survivalist perspective, the other calibers are generally gimmicks if you are honestly answering the “versatility versus logistics” question in a logical manner. The 5.56 in an AR, and/or 7.62×51 in an FAL or M1A is where it’s at.

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AR carbine (top), or pistol (bottom) in 5.56x45Nato

M1A rifles

M1A Socom with Sage stock (left) M1A Match (right). While the FAL isn’t known for it’s accuracy, the M1A (especially the “Loaded” and “Match” models) are.

The above video was from my M1A Socom shown above, and shot at EVTC. They got it wrong about the ammo however. It was 1970’s era German Ball. This just shows how effective a good flash suppressor can be, even out of a 7.62×51 16″ carbine barrel.

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So You Want A New AR, huh?

Admin Note: I wrote this prior to the contemporary…um…’incident’. But that being said, it’s timely for those just now waking up, those looking to streamline kit, or those simply wanting to read another take on the bewilderment that is the contemporary AR platform. This is NOT a caliber war. Intermediate caliber debates are stupid and get argued by people who don’t know their rear from a hole in the ground about fighting. So if you want to argue why your pet caliber is better than Joe’s pet caliber, there’s whole forums where folks with no experience do that- Go there. Understand?

A Reader’s Question:

Looking to purchase a new ar-15 soon, but am at odds on the caliber. So (many) conflicting opinions on the internet. Could you do an article in the future about the feasibility of each caliber? .223, .308, 6.5 Grendel, 300 ACC Blackout. Considering long term ammo availability as well, that being the primary issue. Thanks.

Parameters Matter

Our first question needs to be what is the purpose of this weapon? Is it going to be a jack of all trades, general purpose home defense rifle? That’s 99.9% of you reading this. Is it going to be an *actual* sporting rifle that you intend to hunt with or is it simply a range toy? If it’s a range toy then what I have to say is going to be irrelevant either way; I’m not wealthy, I can’t afford range toys. Are you buying with the intention that you’re going to need resupply (you should be) at some point or are you planning on going it alone? How do you intend to keep it running? Logistics matter a lot more than what you like best. For sanity’s sake lets look at our options listed above and say that our first rifle is going to be our general purpose, home defense, fight if we have to, carbine. We have .223 (5.56×45), .308 (7.62×51), 6.5 Grendel, and 300 BO. (But, why not 7.62×39??? Because it runs far better in an AK. That’s why.)

300 Blackout

This is, like 6.8 SPC, doomed to be an “also ran” for a lot of reasons. Having shot a good amount of it, the round always seemed like to me an answer in search of a question. “The better mousetrap” I guess. It may have a ballistic advantage in a certain niche, and while I’m NOT a fan out of an AR, it’s interesting out of a bolt gun- but nothing that can’t be done cheaper with more common rounds. Wanting a caliber with the close range ballistics of the 7.62×39, better performance than 5.56 suppressed, and fitting in a standard AR 15 magazine all seems like a worthy notion, but in practice I think it falls flat especially for a Survivalist.

First, it’s not in widespread use. Yeah, sure, such and such or so and so secret squirrel ninjas are rumored to use it (because wikipedia said so), and it’s the hottest thing on the planet this week to the cooler-than-thou range bunny types, but the real story is that it’s a lot of hype for not much gain in any direction, especially if you’re running a standard length barrel unsuppressed (and that’s most all of you). It’s smaller cousin, 5.56, from which it borrows its case is in far more widespread use, every bit as effective at longer ranges (300-600min my experience, and unless you’re explicitly building a rifle to be suppressed-only, you’re not gaining much except for a more expensive ammo budget. Don’t kid yourself into thinking it’s going to be adopted by anyone in large quantity either. The usuals said that about 6.8 too…which went nowhere. In fact, if it did get picked for large scale .gov use the on-the-shelf supply would dry up faster than .22 LR at a prepper convention.

But, but, I can reload for it! Yeah, right, ok. And when you run out of that supply, eventually, where are you going to find new brass? You don’t have time or ability to worry about digging up brass if you’re laying down the pain on a target. Oh, you’ll ream .223 brass that’s everywhere, that’s right. But you’re doing all that while you’re also runnin’ n’ gunnin’ and survivin’ n’ preppin’ like a doomsday master right? Have you reamed 2,000 of them to resupply your team? Can you? No? That’s what I thought. Shaping brass is a major PITA, and there’s no guarantee that it will even work across varied rifle manufacturers or chamber tolerances. The logistics simply don’t support it, and until they do, and I don’t think they ever will, you should avoid it no matter how much the tacticool gunrag crowd tells you not to. Yeah, it kills stuff. So does 5.56. So does 7.62×39. The dead ain’t gonna compliment you on your boutique round.

6.5 Grendel

Now the Grendel is a neat concept and in many ways perfects the concept of the intermediate round. Interestingly enough, Bill Alexander ( I have a close friend who met him bumbling in a gunshop of all places local to Alexander’s facility, and speaks very highly of the encounter) took a similar path that the British did earlier in the .280 British, which was scrapped as the NATO standard in lieu of the 7.62×51, as the US possessed far larger means to produce .30 cal ammo. (And it kept the MIC in business) But the .280 class round excelled at flat trajectory and carried energy at distance, also reflected in the strengths of its newest incarnation. The Grendel is excellent for shooting at longer distances and being lightweight with low recoil, making it a very attractive round for families of smaller statured shooters or recoil sensitive people to be more effective at longer ranges. Overall, I think it’s a great round and a great idea. It’s an excellent intermediate range cartridge and works very well. But I won’t recommend it as a first or only AR-type weapon.

grendel.jpg
Notice the serious lack of meat on the edges of the bolt face? That’s an issue. Whether it’s 7.62×39 or 6.5 Grendel, which share parent cases, this design is NOT optimum for long-term durability.

First, you need special magazines. Like the 6.8, it suffers from needing it’s own due to a unique cartridge taper. This gets expensive and can be complicated, especially for newer shooters. Second, it needs it’s own bolt, which is the same as the 7.62×39 AR bolt face, having much less metal on the lugs. This WILL lead to premature failure compared to the standard AR bolt dimensions, as any 7.62×39 AR shooter will begrudgingly tell you. Ammo itself used to be expensive, but interestingly enough a number of nations are looking at the round as a possible next generation cartridge, including Russia and Serbia. In fact, a 6.5 Grendel AK Vepr was available in the US for a very short time before Molot imports ended up being banned earlier this year. wyEWOWf-660x495Zastava also builds one, and we might see an imported version on our shores along with their Yugo M70 type AKM. As of this writing 6.5 ammo is indeed made by Wolf and is available at many outlets, so stocking up on training ammo is not a problem currently. But that being said, since it’s not (yet) in widespread use, not used by any domestic entity in any measurable quantity, requires specialty magazines, and I don’t foresee a foreign invasion by an army using it, I don’t recommend it as a first or only AR-type weapon.

 

7.62 NATO (308 Winchester)

Unlike the bulk of the gun culture out there, I have combat experience with the SR-25, aka M110 aka SASR. I greatly preferred the M24 when given the option. The M14 EBR was also issued, and I still rather carried the M24. I privately owned a higher-end 7.62×51 AR-10 type weapon for a while, and still prefer a bolt gun. That should tell you what you need to know, but in case it doesn’t, I’ll elaborate.

I don’t think anyone in their right mind questions the power of the 7.62, be it a fighting round or medium game caliber, and in my opinion, it’s the best all around utility cartridge for a Survivalist along with the 12ga, primarily due to it’s commonality and widespread use among…pretty much everyone. I know first hand the destruction both M80 ball and the M118 can deliver on the business end, as well as the freezers I’ve filled growing up with Remington Core-lokt. But I don’t really like it in an AR.

The first problem is defining an industry standard; for the 308 pattern AR, there’s a few out there. The Armalite pattern took a proprietary magazine, the DPMS/Bushmaster yet another, the Rock River took an FAL magazine, etc, etc, with a de-facto industry standard arising with the adoption of the SR-25/M110 type rifle. This led to Magpul making the good quality and inexpensive magazines for it, somewhat resolving one issue, but still, there’s others. Like it’s little brother, the AR10 suffers from varying degrees of quality associated with expense- and if you’re buying “budget”, expect problems. I’ve shot

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Discipline 101. This guy would have severe problems with his rifle should he have needed it. He’s set up a DMR with no flash hider- I hope he knows the amount of dust that kicks up from an effective firing position. Notice the lack of ejection port cover and forward assist? Those were added to the AR design for a reason. In case someone shows up with something like this, at least cover it with duck tape. Don’t go to war with a range toy, Francis. 

enough of them to know and I’m not interested in hearing how your $500 homebuilt runs like a swiss watch. If you’re new to the AR in general, this is a HUGE deal. Malfunctions when it matters not only saps confidence but costs lives. Second, all ARs break stuff in time; if there’s varying degrees of standards, ill fitting parts deadline that weapon and without experience in your fold you’re going to have a heck of a time diagnosing the issue. Big Bore ARs are far less common and not nearly as interchangeable as their 5.56 counterpart. Bolts are a big part of the problem- there’s no one monolithic standard. The new DPMS Gen II makes this even more complicated, blurring the lines between the AR15 and 10 in an attempt to shave weight, using a completely different bolt than anything else on the market. Last, they’re all, to a rifle (again, I’ve got enough experience with them from the bottom end range trash to the Stoner SR-25) finicky about cleanliness. Much more so than the AR-15. In fact, the M110 is widely known among end users for being unreliable- the semi-integral suppressor and extreme close tolerances are the culprits- and keeping a weapon meticulously clean is a challenge on long movements. Trust me, I know. I think LMT has it right with their version that the Brits are using from what I’ve observed, but that’s the only one I can vouch for.

So while I love the 308 round, I don’t love the AR rifles that fire it, and approach with caution if you do. If you’re wanting a semi-auto combat rifle, the FAL, M1A/M14, and G3/PTR-91 types are better options in my experience, in that order. If you just have to have an SR-25 type rifle, don’t cut corners and buy the best quality possible. If standardizing on them as part of a group, buy ones form the same maker to have a known standard between rifles. But you’re walking into SCAR territory in terms of cost when buying quality, and that’s a better weapon all around. Even better still, put the money into a good bolt action rifle with great glass and buy a quality AR15 for everything else. Does this mean they’re all bad? No, it’s just not what you should buy as a first or only AR.

5.56 NATO (.223 Remington)

img_0233Probably the most controversial round ever created among people who talk more than do, the 5.56 since it’s adoption long, long ago either meets scorn or high praise depending on varied levels of experience of the story teller (BS artist). I’ll tell you first hand it always worked fine for me. Fine as in, did it’s job. Nothing more, nothing less.  It did what I expected it to do, every time. The round was designed with certain parameters filling the same void the Kalashnikov did; bigger than a burp gun but playing the same role for the “marching fire” concept that was all the rage post-WWII. A soldier can carry a lot of ammo with not a lot of weight, and the heavier loadings that I favor (69gr Nosler, 77gr OTM, for different purposes) are very effective against a wide variety of targets. Since I’m not bound by any convention anymore (and that works two ways, for all you would-be partisans), I’m not limited to the 62gr green tip- not that it doesn’t work, but a Barnes Varmint grenade or a Nosler BT work dramatically better.

But this ain’t a caliber debate; its a logistics debate. Overwhelmingly the 5.56 is in broad supply, along with the standard magazines and standard dimension parts. Everything about the rifle is a known quantity.  Spare parts, even for top shelf quality, has never been cheaper. The 5.56 AR15 is experiencing a renaissance in the US like few weapons have, and in 20 years it went from being an “army gun carried by the fringe types” in the eyes of the public to being a status symbol along with Ford Trucks and Yeti coolers. It doesn’t make sense not to have one.

And for that reason, you should own one in 5.56 for your first AR. It is not the best of any world (no intermediate cartridge is), but it works and it’s what you’ll find in many people’s hands when need be. It’s not my own favorite round by any means but I know it works from experience. For that matter all of them discussed here work, it’s just a matter of how the logistics figure into the equation long-term. And that answer for the AR-15 is 5.56, period. The design is not going away anytime in the foreseeable future and adding one to your arsenal in its basic form is a logical move. Keep it simple and you’ll keep it effective. Avoid gimmicks, buy quality and train often.

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JCD

American by BIRTH, Infidel by CHOICE

 

 

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A Survivalist Self Assessment

MDT Patches1-1

I was recently going through an old journal I kept when I was a young Survivalist (15 years old), and I came across a self assessment test that I apparently thought was important enough to write out verbatim in 1985 (I decided to re-write it in a Word format now). I have copied what I had written in the journal here for your own perusal and use. It was originally put out by a company called “Safety City” of Washington D.C.. I tried to find out if they still existed, but all attempts at googling that business showed nothing available. Some people think that if it’s not the latest and greatest info (this is 32 years old), it is “obviously” sub par. Think what you will, but I challenge you to come up with a more exhaustive generalized skills and equipment checklist. Enjoy.

On the Warpath

Taken about the same time that I wrote this assessment down.

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A: HOME MANAGEMENT/HANDICRAFTS

  1. Home Water Purification/Storage
  2. Food Processing/Canning/Dehydrating/Storage
  3. Hand Powered Home/Kitchen Appliances
  4. Nutrition/Home Economics
  5. Soaps/Candle Making
  6. Home Product Chemistry/Formulation Process
  7. Spinning/Weaving
  8. Sewing/Knitting/Crocheting
  9. Home Energy/Resource Conservation
  10. Other__________________________

 

B: HOME BACK-UP SYSTEMS 

  1. Back-Up Home heating Systems
  2. Back-Up Home Lighting Systems
  3. Back-Up Range/Cooking Systems
  4. Back-Up Home Water Heating/Pressure Systems
  5. Back-Up Food Refrigeration/Freezing Systems
  6. Back-Up Home Electrical Systems
  7. Back-Up Home Waste Disposal/Composting
  8. Back-Up Communication/Signaling Systems
  9. Other_______________________________

 

C: MEDICAL/DENTAL

  1. First Aid
  2. Non-Prescription Drugs/Medications
  3. Paramedical Skills
  4. Medicine/Surgery
  5. Pharmacology
  6. Nursing/Midwifery
  7. Medical Lab Technology
  8. Paradental Skills
  9. Dentistry/Oral Surgery
  10. Public Health/Epidemiology
  11. Medicinal Herbs/Plants
  12. Natural/Folk Medicine
  13. Other______________

 

D: FOOD PRODUCTION

  1. Gardening/Organic-Hydroponic
  2. Greenhouse Construction/Use
  3. Fruit Tree/Small Orchard Cultivation
  4. Beekeeping
  5. Small Animal Husbandry
  6. Aquaculture
  7. Farmstead Operation/Maintenance/Management
  8. Other______________

 

E: MECHANICS/BUILDING/FABRICATION/PROCESSING

  1. Hand Tools Use/Maintenance
  2. Wood Cutting Equipment/Skills
  3. Bicycle Maintenance/Repair
  4. Small Engine Maintenance/Repair
  5. Auto/Truck Maintenance/Repair
  6. Home Appliance Repair
  7. Home Electrical System Repair/Maintenance
  8. Plumbing
  9. Carpentry/Woodworking
  10. Masonry/Concrete
  11. Metalworking/Blacksmithing/Weld-Solder
  12. Wood/Coal Stove Design/Fabrication
  13. Rope/Cable/Rigging Skills
  14. Well Drilling/Pumping Systems
  15. Trailer/RV/Mobile Home/Design/Fabrication
  16. Construction/Cabins/Sheds/Domes/Field Expedient Structures
  17. Tanning/Leatherwork
  18. Shoemaking/Shoe Repair
  19. Other________________

 

F: ENERGY SYSTEMS

  1. Wood/Coal Energy Systems
  2. Solar Energy-Passive/Active Systems/Photovotaics
  3. Wind Energy/Voltaics
  4. Alcohol Fuel Production
  5. Liquid Propane Energy Systems
  6. Steam Power Systems
  7. Water Power Systems/Hydraulics
  8. Pedal Power Systems
  9. Other_________________

 

G: OUTDOOR LIVING/PIONEERING

  1. Backpacking/Camping Skills
  2. Foraging/Wilderness Survival
  3. Hunting Skills
  4. Fishing Skills
  5. Skiing/Mountaineering
  6. Swimming/Lifesaving
  7. Canoeing/Kayaking
  8. Open Water/Deep Sea Survival
  9. Search/Rescue Procedures
  10. Other__________________

 

H: SECURITY/SELF-/HOME-DEFENSE SKILLS

  1. Home Security/Defense Systems
  2. Individual/Small-Group Defensive Tactics
  3. Personal Protection/Combat Skills
  4. Rifle Skills
  5. Pistol/Revolver Skills
  6. Shotgun Skills
  7. Non-Lethal Weapons/Defensive Skills
  8. Scouting/Patrol Skills
  9. Improvised Fortification Systems
  10. Lethal Weapons/Firearms Safety/Discipline/Responsibility
  11. Firearms Marksmanship
  12. Ammunition/Handloading
  13. Gunsmithing/Firearms Repair
  14. Blackpowder Firearms Skills
  15. Crossbow/Tomahawk/Blowgun Skills
  16. Edged Weapon Skills/Knife Fighting
  17. Other_________________________

 

I: EVACUATION, MOBILE SURVIVAL/RETREAT SYSTEMS

  1. Backpack Systems
  2. Bicycle Systems
  3. Motorcycle Systems
  4. Canoe/Small Boat Systems
  5. Automobile/Truck Systems
  6. Four Wheel Drive Vehicle Systems
  7. Recreational Vehicle/Trailer Systems
  8. Sail/Powerboat Systems
  9. Aircraft Systems
  10. Individual/Family Retreat Planning/Design
  11. Group/Organization Retreat Planning/Design
  12. Other_______________________________

 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE:

There are four sections that you can complete for each topic within each category. “Interest Level”, the “Present Skill Level”, a “Desired Skill Level”, and finally the “Willing To Develop/Provide Training For Others” section.

Section One would be your “INTEREST LEVEL”.

Under “Interest Level” is three categories, “NONE”, “SOME”, and “HIGH”. These are self explanatory.

Section Two would be your “PRESENT SKILL LEVEL”. 

The four levels of skill are, “NONE”, “APPRENTICE”, “JOURNEYMAN”, and “MASTER”. Be honest with yourself, it is a self assessment. You will never get better if you aren’t honest with yourself about where you are presently at.

Section Three is “DESIRED SKILL LEVEL”.

If you indicated in the “Interest Level” section that your interest was high in a given area, fill out your “Desired Skill Level” for those areas. Those levels would be “APPRENTICE’, “JOURNEYMAN” and “MASTER”. This will give you something to strive for.

Last but not least is Section Four which is “WILLING TO DEVELOP/PROVIDE TRAINING FOR OTHERS” and consists of whether you are willing to teach any area that you have a “Master’s” level of skill in. This is just a simple “YES” or “NO”.

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Two things I added to my list years ago in the “Other” sections of two of the categories were as follows: in Category “G” I included Trapping, because if you are going to include “Hunting” and “Fishing’ as their own categories, “Trapping” deserves it’s own too. I also added ATV Systems to Category “I”, because they are not an automobile, and they have many more “Survivalist” oriented capabilities than a motorcycle.

Sometimes it is very hard to get an idea of what you need to learn or invest in, where you are at with skills and equipment, and where you want to be regarding skills and gear. Hopefully, this assessment will help you figure out some of those needs.

MDT Class 16-3-1-1

Still striving to complete the assessment 32 years later, but I’m a lot closer.

JCD

American by BIRTH, Infidel by CHOICE

 

The November 4th “War Games”?

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After receiving a number of, “What do you think?” and “Is it realistic?” interrogatives from several people concerning the supposed November 4th “Antifa War Games” kickoff, I decided that maybe going over some basic preps and realities might be in order. First, let’s go over some questions that might be asked.

  1. Is it realistic to think that Antifa communists and their misguided minions in Black Lives Matter will do anything of substance on November 4th, and should it be considered a serious threat to the average civilian?
  2. Who is at risk initially?
  3. If it is a threat, what can I do to eliminate or at least mitigate the threat to me and my family initially?
  4. What are the immediate and extended concerns and preps I should have if this event does go even close to what they’ve got planned?
Antifa Commies

I think it is supposed to read “Cast Aside Delusion, Retribution Until Constipation”

Question number One, “Is it realistic to think that Antifa and their misguided minions in Black Lives Matter will do anything of substance on November 4th, and should it be considered a serious threat to the average civilian?”. Do I think they are a threat and should be taken seriously? Yes. Do I think they have the ability to accomplish their goal of overthrowing President Trump? No. But, If you doubt what people like this are capable of, read up on most of the communist revolutions throughout the twentieth century.

Antifa Moolisha7

And the award for “Minion Third Class” goes to…….

Better yet, if you want a more parallel historical situation, look at what happened in South Africa. The communists used racial issues as their primary focus, and that was the beginning of the end for the country of South Africa as we knew it. Wanna know the big difference between South Africa in the 90’s when the communist Mandela took over, and America today? Whites in SA at that time were 12.5% of the population. Whites in America today are about 70%. Yes, a number of them are communist retards or millennial imbeciles, but the majority is who elected Trump (and there are plenty of conservative minorities), so it’s not a lost cause by any stretch of the imagination.

Moolisha Pics Antifa

Aaaaaaaand….commie moolisha

Here’s a few my thoughts on the whole “threat” thing. If they try to do what they say they are going to do, I think most of them will die horribly while trying to push their guts back into their belly after being shot by a guy or girl with a deer rifle or a bird gun. If the antifa turdburglers have a gun, most just picked it up less than a year ago. The huge majority don’t know how to run it at even a basic level.

Although they might think the rule is just “Bring a gun to a gun fight”, what they don’t know is that within that rule it is implied that you are able to properly load, accurately fire, properly reload, and properly move with the gun in question.  This does not however allow YOU to be less vigilant in your preparedness.

Question number Two, “Who is at risk initially?”Well, primarily, I think it depends where the citizen in question lives. If the citizen we are talking about lives in a big metropolis or urban area, sure, they could be adversely affected by anything these groups do, simply because their actions are pretty much always in urban settings.

If the citizen lives in the more rural areas, I think immediate effects will not be felt by them. However, if the situation goes on for any length of time (a few days or more), it will more than likely be felt by them because most probably have jobs in an urban area. Even if they don’t, going to the store for food and sundries, generally requires a trip into town.

 I believe these are the demographic groups at risk in order of highest to lowest risk (A-E) with “F” being a “wrong place, wrong time” situation. A) You are a conservative politician, Gov official, or Law Enforcement Officer, especially the ones who have spoken out against Antifa, BLM, Bernie Sanders, and communism. B) You are a known civilian advocate for President Trump, and have publicly spoken out against Antifa and the BLM. C) You have things around your home or on your vehicle that show that you affiliate with President Trump, conservative groups, or are anti Antifa/BLM/communist. D) You are White in a mostly minority populated area which has serious racial issues. E) You live in a metro area that is conveniently located and will probably see attacks/riots. F) You happen to be driving through an area that has protests/riots going on.

Question number Three. “If it is a threat, what can I do to eliminate or at least mitigate the threat to me and my family initially?” For the urban citizen, your best bet is to A) Have the means to protect yourself close at hand (keep a handgun on you at all times and have ready access to a long gun). B) Have provisions which include non grid reliant heat (it will be November), food that requires minimal prep (cook it on your heat source), lots of stored water, first aid supplies, and a full tank of gas in the car with a planned and map marked evac route (if your neighborhood is being overrun this is the last ditch step albeit a somewhat foolish one. If you can leave, you SHOULD leave at the first sign of trouble, not after they are inside your secure area).

Home Preps

Last but certainly not least (some would argue it’s the most important) is commo. A good AM/FM/Shortwave can’t be beat for getting info without an internet hook up. If you have internet/cell service, you should be keeping track (probably some live streaming going on) of any area within your locality that is having problems with these types. You should also have a few hand held radios (FRS/GMRS type) to be able to communicate at a minimum within your home. You also need to consider commo with others in your neighborhood if you can rely on them for support.

Food post1

How easily can you move the canned goods you have stored?

For the rural citizen, the situation is probably less dire, at least initially. It is still important to show caution, and the steps above are still applicable to the rural dweller. Although an evac for the rural citizen isn’t probably high on the “necessities” list, having someplace to go that is even more remote is always a good idea. One of the good things about being in the country is your ability to have harder defenses and greater line of site observation (LP/OP’s), than you generally can get in the city. The rural citizen might want to stock up on gas for a generator as well, because there is always a good possibility that the “Antifarts” will try to go after grid infrastructure. (Note: I didn’t mention a genny for the urban dweller because if it’s that bad in the city, you really don’t want to draw attention to yourself by running a noisy generator).

Compact Rifle post3

Compact reliable carbines can’t be beat for protection.

Question number Four, “What are the immediate and extended concerns I should have if this event does go even close to what they’ve planned?” For “B-E”, there are really only two choices you can make. One is to remove yourself from the area before hand. Two, if you have the personnel available, is to set up defensive measures around your home that discourage or at least funnel an attack. Considering the kind of threats Antifa (don’t forget, it’s now listed as a terrorist organization) has been making, having your property set up to repel attackers with deadly force is not overstepping the reasonably allowable use of force requirements. I’d suggest you have a few “less than lethal” or “less lethal” alternatives available (bean bag and pepperball rounds for shotguns, etc.), and have the means to video tape EVERYTHING that goes on at your property.

Bayonet post1.JPG

9 shot 12 Gauge Mossberg 590A1 with pig sticker. With this you have “less than lethal” or “less lethal” options, you can stop a car with a slug, or you can shoot standard shot or buckshot. As good a home defender as ever there was one. No, it’s not something to carry in your vehicle.

Primarily, “Extended” concerns for the urban dweller after the initial violence would be having more of the aforementioned supplies to provide heat, food, water (can you move your food and water supplies easily?), first aid supplies, protection, and we should now add to that, “shelter”. Having the ability to live out of your vehicle with a good tent, well made, warm sleeping bags and something like a “Mr Heater” to heat the tent, can not be overlooked as a temporary safety measure in the event that your house becomes unlivable due to fire or because your area was overrun and is occupied by bad guys and is obviously not safe. This is where having someone in an unaffected area comes into its own as a fall back plan.

Extended concerns for the rural dweller are pretty much summed up above under the answer to “Question Three”, you’ll just need more of those supplies. Regarding “Question Two’s”, category “F”, and the immediate concern about driving through an protest/riot area and being caught off guard in the middle of a situation. This issue is easily mitigated by being aware of what is going on around you (situational awareness), and the locations of the problems. In this instance, if you have the ability to legally carry a firearm on your person or in your vehicle, I highly suggest you do that. This is actually a situation where the AR type pistol (along with your regular carry pistol) that I wrote about in this post might be a huge advantage in the “defensive measures” department.  In the worse case, you can’t carry a firearm, so I’d suggest you have a nice straight claw hammer, or maybe even a nail gun (for that last minute repair work at a “friend’s” house) available for use, spur of the moment.

Commie Scumbag

Commies everywhere! Ranger Battalion, Graduate of the U.S. Military Academy at West Point…..They aren’t all illiterate, untrained, “Snowflakes”. Prepare and act accordingly. By the way, if he wants to be like Che? I say, “Make him like Che……”

Do I think the Commies are gonna play their games on November 4th? Who knows, maybe. Would we be foolish not to “wargame” our options and prepare for them in case of that eventuality? Yes, we would! As Teddy Roosevelt said, “Make preparations in advance … you never have trouble if you are prepared for it.”. This is the essence of the Preparedness and Survivalist life style. I guess in the fantasy you could always wait for the Moolisha Kernals to show pick a side (yeah, right) and then save you….right? I’ll go with option “1” thanks.

JCD

American by BIRTH, Infidel by CHOICE