Trapping Food When You’re On The Go

Re-posted from MDSA

Conibear post1

Some traps bought as a teenager for my first trapline at 15. Victory No.2 double coil spring on the left, 110 Conibear, center, and a Victory No.1 single leaf spring, right. 

Over the years I’ve had a number of people ask me what I suggested for trapping in an “On the move, supplies on my back” survival scenario. My usual suggestions are snares if you are travelling very light (example, in the smock kit), and at least four 110 Conibears body hold traps (one for each of the cardinal directions) along with snares if you are carrying a rucksack. Although snares will do their job well if you set them correctly, they also are “one time use” if the animal tears them up. The 110 Conibear will work again and again and again for decades if taken care of.

One of the best ways I’ve found to carry my Conibear traps is by using a mil issue SAW pouch. The SAW pouch was originally designed to carry a 200 round squad automatic weapon (SAW) plastic drum/box, and I have found that it will conveniently carry four 110 Conibear traps, some snares, trap building gear (wood screws, nails, wire, twine and heavy staples) and even a bottle of lure if you want.

Conibear post2

Four brand new Conibear traps placed in a SAW pouch for a new ruck kit. Note how they fit perfectly in the SAW pouch with some room to spare.

My Buddy Bergmann normally uses a British bergan ruck, and at 3:45 in this video, he shows where/how he carries his Conibears in his bergan. One of the advantages I see in carrying your traps in it’s own specific pouch (like the SAW pouch), is your ability to take that pouch off of your ruck, attach it to your LBE/LBV, belt, etc., and go out to run your small trapline while leaving your ruck stashed and camouflaged.

Conibear post3

I’ve had the top trap for 32 years, the bottom one is brand new. 

My trapping experiences and targets as a kid were primarily raccoon, fox and muskrat. We didn’t have much in the way of mink in our area at the time, and there weren’t any coyotes here (DNR imported them from out West in the mid 90’s) yet. Squirrels (one of your primary target animals for food) are harder to trap than muskrat, but easier to trap than coons (in my experience). Learning the art of trapping is a great survival skill that could serve you well if you end up in a post SHTF scenario.

One of the most important things about trapping is the need to actually get out and do it. Watching a youtube video to learn the theory and basic techniques is great, but it’s only about a third (I’m being very generous) of the “successful trapping” equation. A good place for the novice to start is Dave Canterbury’s “Modern Trapping Series“. Below is one of Canterbury’s videos on prepping and use of the 110 Conibear trap, and here is another.

The last dozen 110’s I bought, I purchased through Amazon (convenient), here’s the link. Now is the time to get your trapping kit squared away then go out and learn how to use it. As far as I know, trapping is legal in all 50 states. The requirement might be to buy a $5 trappers permit with your hunting license, or it might require that you take a “Trapper’s” course which is similar to the “Hunter Safety Course”. Check your state requirements, get squared away, and get out and practice.

JCD

American by BIRTH, Infidel by CHOICE

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9 thoughts on “Trapping Food When You’re On The Go

  1. The anti- trapping fanatics are worse than the anti -hunters.
    I haven’t trapped since my early 20’s.
    Partly because of groups like PETA helping to depress fur prices back then, and partly due to lack of time between work and raising kids.
    I’m with you on snares being the most expedient and one of the most effective methods to catch critters.
    I’m going to run a coyote trapline next winter to hopefully make a few bucks and to help the deer population recover from the ‘yotes killing so many fawns.
    I know some states only open certain public lands to trapping.
    Some public hunting areas are off limits to trapping.
    Here in Ohio, you have to take a trappers safety course similar to hunter safety then pay an extra few bucks for trapping permit to go with hunting license.
    There are now a lot of beaver and a lot of mink in some of Ohio’s public hunting areas.
    Would be worth it for anyone who has the time and skills.
    I know several guys who earned enough from trapping to buy nice rifles shotguns and hunting gear.
    Good way to help feed yourself in a SHTF scenario as the trap works 24/7 and you can be doing other things that you have to get done.

  2. We used to trap squirrels with Victor Rat Traps (the big ones, not those little ‘mice’ traps’) when we were kids. Pretty effective, but you ran out of them pretty quickly so if you are in your location long term, plan to rotate your trapping areas. Because of this experience, we still stock some for our use. Three of them will fit standard 30 round magazine pouches. As per Canterbury suggestions, we drill a hole in the corner for wiring it in place in case a larger predator attempts to steal trapped animal or trapped animals escapes on its own.

    Brother used the standard coil spring for trapping ‘possums when they raided his homing pigeon loft as a a teenager. They were pretty easy to trap – locating the trap along an edge where they snuck in worked well.

  3. Pingback: MDT: Getting Food On The Move | Western Rifle Shooters Association

  4. A pecan with a hole drilled in it and threaded onto a 110 trip is the easiest way in the world to get squirrels. I caught 7 last weekend. Way too easy. It’s quiet, can be hidden and used over and over.

  5. Buckshot (Bruce Hemming) has some great trapping videos and reasonably priced equipment and books. He is a “survivalist” trapper and so his perspective is worthwhile to me. A good informational source, hope I am not overstepping by including his link.

    http://www.snare-trap-survive.com/

  6. “Trapping on the move”? WTH? I love trapping; coyotes, possums, coons, done a lot of it, snaring bunnies, ditto, squirrels, yep. Damn sure can’t do and move from A to Z without coming back to A. If your moving out an AO, you damn sure can’t trap and travel at the same time.

    • This isn’t some “We’re only gonna RON here.” proposition. The plan would be to move from point A to point Z, and staying at each short term base camp for a couple or 5 days (depends on miltiple criteria). Upon arrival at each short term “base camp” you go out and set up some traps, based on the experience you’ve gained by already have done it. You either know what to look for, or you don’t. This is why I stress learning it now while it’s not a necessity. So I guess “YoYo’s” are useless to carry too?

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