We start with a standard issue M60 padded sling, for photo purposes, it is attached to an M4, but I have used the same sling set up on AK’s, FAL’s, HK91’s and the M1A SOCOM.
I usually trim the rifle butt end of the sling strap, since in the final adaptation, this will place the padded section on your shoulder where it should be. You’ll take a common 1 1/2 inch wide fastex buckle (bought mine at Gander Mountain) with the two slot locks on both ends (see pic) or a double slot, single slot version.
You will start threading (double slot end, if you have a double single model) it through the long (muzzle) end of the sling, till it is almost up to the padded section (see pic)
You’ll want to thread it through both slots, so the buckle will be pointing towards the butt end of the sling. This will help ensure that the sling does not work its way through the buckle over time, as it is locked against the slot. Next, take the muzzle end of the sling, with the original metal sling slider already on the sling about 6-7 inches up from the sling tip, and feed it through your sling swivel/attachment point.(see pics)
Upon completion of this step, you will route the sling through either the outer slot on a two slot buckle, or the only slot on a single, and then feed it through the original metal sling slider. (see pic)
That’s as easy s it is. Voila, you have a “tactical sling” that didn’t break the bank. This modification will effectively help you to secure your weapon close to the body, either front or back, without having to slide the sling through the metal sliders (pain in the ass, and slooooow), or have to pay an exorbitant amount of money for a “tacticool” sling from whoever happens to be the vender in vogue for the week. As you see in the pics, the sling can be instantly adjusted from short to long, with the release or coupling of the fastex buckle.
As you can see from the following pics, the weapon will be high and close to the body (but still easily accessible by unclipping the buckle, WITH YOUR NON DOMINANT HAND!) in the short configuration. Adjustments are made by making the loop (excess sling material between the buckle slots) bigger or smaller. Making the loop bigger will tighten the sling to your chest. In the In the long configuration, it needs to be adjusted (adjusting the front metal slider tighter or more loosely) so you can easily shoulder your weapon, but it still gives you somewhat of a stable sling position. (see pics)
You don’t need to buy the latest fad gear to be proficient with your weapon. Some thing are worth the money, some are for looks. Slings are an accessory I would not want to be without on my long gun, any more than I would want to be without a holster for my handgun. Keep it simple stupid (KISS) Is something that should be stressed throughout you gear selection, for the same reason you practice gross (for the most part), not fine, motor skills in weapon manipulation training. It’s easier to learn, easier to perform, and from a gear standpoint, less complicated usually means more durable (less to go wrong). For you guys with the underfolder AK’s or similar stock configurations, this mod puts your rifle up and out of the way, more than any other stock type. Hell, you can adjust it so the pistol grip is at shoulder height.
For M4 owners, keep in mind, you stock needs to be in the position you shoot from (6 position stock types), when you adjust the sling length, unless you have the sling attachment point on a rear receiver mount. I hope this helps those of you out there that have asked me for advice on slings. This is just a variation of a two-point sling, that uses readily available materials.
American by BIRTH, Infidel by CHOICE